General Inspection
Examining fabric to identify defects.
Newly made goods,
which frequently show imperfections, are carefully inspected, and defects are
usually repaired by hand operations. The first inspection of woollen and
worsted fabrics is called perching. Burling, mainly applied to woollen,
worsted, spun rayon, and cotton fabrics, is the process of removing any
remaining foreign matter, such as burrs and, also, any loose threads, knots,
and undesired slubs. Mending, frequently necessary for woollens and worsteds,
eliminates such defects as holes or tears, broken yarns, and missed warp or
weft yarns.
Shearing
A process to remove surface irregularities in
a fabric by passing it through a cylindrical machine with rotating spiral blades
.i.e. the removal of protruding ends of threads, knots, and hairs from the
surface of a fabric and the evening of the length of pile to improve the
fabric’s appearance.
Both woven and knitted fabrics undergo
shearing. The process is carried out on two types of machines: lengthwise
shearing machines (the major type) and transverse shearing machines, which are
used to cut the fabric ends. The working element is a shearing mechanism
consisting of a cylinder to which spiral blades are attached, a flat steel
blade, a table, and guiding rollers. The rapidly rotating cylinder and the
stationary flat blade form a scissors mechanism that cuts the fabric as it
passes through the shearing mechanism.
Singeing
Singeing is a process applied to both yarns
and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres, yarn
ends, and fuzz. This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas
flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding
material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
Also called
gassing,. Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a
wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted.
Desizing
It is
the process of removing the size material from the warp yarns after the textile
fabric is woven.
Desizing, irrespective of what the desizing
agent is, involves impregnation of the fabric with the desizing agent, allowing
the desizing agent to degrade or solubilise the size material, and finally to
wash out the degradation products.
Scouring
Scouring removes substances that have
adhered to the fibres during production of the yarn or fabric, such as dirt,
oils, and any sizing or lint applied to warp yarns to facilitate weaving.
Washing
Removes from the Cloth the chemicals used in previous
process .i.e. Scouring ,bleaching etc..
Bleaching
Bleaching, a process of whitening fabric by
removal of natural colour, such as the tan of linen, is usually carried out by
means of chemicals selected according to the chemical composition of the fibre.
Chemical bleaching is usually accomplished by
oxidation, destroying colour by the application of oxygen, or by reduction,
removing colour by hydrogenation. Cotton and other cellulosic fibres are usually
treated with heated alkaline hydrogen peroxide; wool and other animal fibres
are subjected to such acidic reducing agents as gaseous sulfur dioxide or to
such mildly alkaline oxidizing agents as hydrogen peroxide. Synthetic fibres,
when they require bleaching, may be treated with either oxidizing or reducing
agents, depending upon their chemical composition. Cottons are frequently
scoured and bleached by a continuous system.
Drying
Water, used in
various phases of textile processing, accumulates in fabrics, and the excess
moisture must eventually be removed. Because evaporative heating is costly, the
first stage of drying uses mechanical methods to remove as much moisture as
possible. Such methods include the use of centrifuges and a continuous method employing
vacuum suction rolls. Any remaining moisture is then removed by evaporation in
heated dryers. Various types of dryers operate by conveying the relaxed fabric
through the chamber while festooned in loops, using a frame to hold the
selvages taut while the fabric travels through the chamber, and passing the
fabric over a series of hot cylinders. Because overdrying may produce a harsh
hand, temperature, humidity, and drying time require careful control.
Mercerization
Mercerization is a
process applied to cotton and sometimes to cotton blends to increase lustre
(thus also enhancing appearance), to improve strength, and to improve their
affinity for dyes. The process, which may be applied at the yarn or fabric
stage, involves immersion under tension in a caustic soda (sodium hydroxide)
solution, which is later neutralized in acid. The treatment produces permanent
swelling of the fibre.
Calendering
Calendering is a
final process in which heat and pressure are applied to a fabric by passing it
between heated rollers, imparting a flat, glossy, smooth surface. Lustre
increases when the degree of heat and pressure is increased. Calendering is
applied to fabrics in which a smooth, flat surface is desirable, such as most
cottons, many linens and silks, and various man-made fabrics. In such fabrics
as velveteen, a flat surface is not desirable, and the cloth is steamed while
in tension, without pressing. When applied to wool, the process is called
pressing and employs heavy heated metal plates to steam and press the fabric.
Calendering is not usually a permanent process.
FINISHING
Finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a
usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the
yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of
the finished textile or cloth .